Eastern Mud Turtle — Fact Sheet
Kinosternon subrubrum · Eastern Mud Turtle · Östliche Schlammschildkröte
📋 At a glance
| Adult size | 7.5-12.5 cm |
| Lifespan | 30-40 years |
| Subspecies | K. s. subrubrum, K. s. hippocrepis; K. steindachneri treated separately |
| Origin | Eastern and south-central United States |
| Activity | Cathemeral; often crepuscular and nocturnal |
| Difficulty | Intermediate |
| Legal | CITES Appendix II; EU Annex B; US state native-wildlife rules vary |
🏠 Enclosure
- One adult: at least 90 x 45 cm footprint; 100-120 cm length preferred
- Shallow-to-moderate water, usually 20-30 cm for a capable adult
- Hatchlings/new arrivals: water shallow enough to breathe while standing
- Substantial land section with 10-15 cm moist soil; female nesting zone 15-20 cm deep
- Strong lid or high walls; house singly
- Avoid tall empty tanks, small gravel, deep open water, and floating docks as the only land
🪨 Enclosure furniture
- Multiple easy routes to the surface: driftwood, cork, ledges, and dense plants
- Fully dry basking surface + shaded moist land retreat
- Stable hides that cannot trap the turtle underwater
- Screen filter intakes and guard heaters
💡 Lighting
- UVB required over the dry basking zone
- Ferguson Zone 2; aim for about UVI 1-2 at shell height and shade near zero
- Moderate T5 HO UVB + separate halogen heat lamp
- Replace by measured output/manufacturer schedule; glass blocks UVB
- Photoperiod: 10-13 h; no night light
🌡️ Temperature
Basking spot: 30-32 °C
Warm zone: 23-26 °C water
Cool zone: 21-23 °C land/air retreat
Night: 20-23 °C
Measure water with a submerged probe and basking surface with an infrared thermometer
Maintain a real gradient; avoid heat rocks and unguarded heaters
💧 Humidity & water
- Oversized mechanical/biological filtration, ideally rated for 2-3x actual water volume
- Cycled system: ammonia 0; nitrite 0; regular partial water changes
- Siphon debris and rinse mechanical media before flow drops
- Land substrate slightly moist below the surface; basking surface fully dry
- Avoid strong current, stagnant water, and replacing all biological media at once
🪱 Diet
Feed regularly:
- Earthworms, cultured snails, aquatic insects, crustacean items
- Suitable whole fish and complete aquatic-turtle pellets
In moderation:
- Safe aquatic plants and occasional plant matter
- Rich prey adjusted to body condition
Avoid:
- Mammal meat, dog/cat food, bread, dairy
- Feeder goldfish, dried shrimp as a staple, wild prey from polluted water
Supplements:
- Whole prey + complete pellets + cuttlebone for calcium
- Do not dust every balanced pellet meal; avoid vitamin overdosing
💤 Seasonal rest
- Not required for a pet; native winter dormancy is not an automatic captive recipe
- Consider only for a healthy established adult in a measured breeding plan with veterinary input
- Never cool juveniles, thin, sick, parasitized, treated, or newly acquired turtles
- Continue weight, hydration, and temperature monitoring
🩺 Health — warning signs
- Pitted, soft, discolored, or smelly shell → water quality, drying, injury, UVB/calcium, or infection problem
- Swollen eyes or irritated skin → ammonia, dirty water, nutritional issue, or infection
- Listing, floating, wheezing, or nasal discharge → possible respiratory disease
- Puffy limbs → chronic overfeeding
- Bites or missing claws → unsafe cohabitation
- Prolonged anorexia → temperature, stress, obstruction, parasites, or systemic disease
Consult a reptile-experienced veterinarian for breathing signs, shell lesions, serious swelling, injury, or prolonged refusal to feed.