Selenobrachys philippinus — Fact Sheet

Selenobrachys philippinus · Selenobrachys philippinus

📋 At a glance

🏠 Enclosure

• Secure indoor enclosure only; no routine handling
• Keep singly; these tarantulas are not communal
• Deep fossorial setup; compact substrate and very little fall height
• 25 x 25 x 35 cm; substrate depth 18-22 cm
• Open only in a closed room with a catch cup ready

🪨 Enclosure furniture

• Cork starter tunnel against one wall
• Leaf litter and twigs for heavy webbing
• Shallow water dish kept accessible

💡 Lighting

• No UVB or basking lamp; indirect room light is sufficient
• Photoperiod: about 10-12 h; no night light
• Keep out of direct sun and away from vibration

🌡️ Temperature

• Heat focus: 24-26 °C

• Day: 22-26 °C

• Cooler area: 20-23 °C

• Night: 20-23 °C

• Measure near the retreat with a digital thermometer

• Warm the room or one external side through a thermostat; never heat beneath substrate

• Avoid heat rocks and hot bulbs over small enclosures

💧 Humidity & water

• Lower substrate evenly but lightly moist; part of surface drier
• Fresh shallow water always available
• Strong cross-ventilation; never a sealed swamp

🪳 Feeding

Feed regularly:

• Captive-reared crickets
• Roaches
• Locusts where legal

In moderation:

• Mealworms or superworms as occasional variety
• Slings every 3-5 days; juveniles every 5-10 days

Avoid:

• Wild-caught insects, vertebrate prey, or oversized feeders
• Live prey during premolt, molt, or before fangs harden
• Remove uneaten prey within 24 h

Supplements:

• No calcium or vitamin powders; use healthy whole feeders

🩺 Health — warning signs

• Staying above ground → flooded, collapsed, or stale retreat
• Condensation and odor → too much water and too little airflow
• Shriveled abdomen or weakness → dehydration, overheating, or illness
• Bite, escape, or severe failed molt → urgent specialist help

Seek an exotic-animal vet or experienced arachnid professional for severe injury, failed molt, or progressive decline.