Morelia viridis — Fact Sheet

Morelia viridis · Morelia viridis

Full care guide and sources

📋 At a glance

🏠 Enclosure

Use an escape-proof enclosure with front access where possible, secure ventilation, and all heat sources controlled by thermostats. Minimum adult housing: 90 x 60 x 90 cm for one adult; larger for active or large females. Bigger is recommended when it creates more usable movement, better thermal zones, and safer maintenance.

🪨 Substrate and furnishings

The enclosure should include a warm hide, cool hide, water bowl, rough but safe shedding surfaces, and enough cover for the animal to move without feeling exposed. Arboreal species need secure branches and elevated perches; heavy terrestrial species need floor space and furnishings that cannot collapse.

Juvenile enclosures should be simple enough to inspect but not bare. Adult enclosures must be built for strength: locks, cable ports, sliding doors, and ventilation panels are common escape points.

💡 Lighting

Use a steady 10-12 hour cycle over the perch and plant side. Gentle UVB is acceptable above one perch if shaded routes and dark retreats are available; leave nights dark.

🌡️ Temperature

• Basking spot: 30-31 °C

• Daytime air: 25-29 °C

• Cool zone: 24-26 °C

• Night: 23-25 °C

• Clear gradient required; the animal must be able to move between warm, cool, and hidden zones

• Measure basking surfaces with an infrared thermometer and ambient zones with digital probes

• Avoid heat rocks and unguarded heat sources

💧 Humidity and water

Provide fresh water at all times. Target humidity: 60-80% with airflow and drying between misting cycles. Use substrate choice, water-bowl placement, partial ventilation control, and a humid hide to manage shedding. Chronic wet bedding causes scale and respiratory problems; chronic dryness causes retained shed and dehydration.

🪳 Feeding

Feed appropriately sized frozen-thawed prey whenever possible. Prey should generally match the snake’s widest body diameter, adjusted for species build and age. Babies usually feed every 5-7 days, juveniles every 7-10 days, and adults every 10-21 days depending on species, temperature, season, and body condition.

Avoid routine live feeding, oversized prey, and handling for at least 48 hours after meals. Refusal to feed is often caused by wrong temperatures, exposure, shedding, breeding season, stress, or prey presentation.

Adjust feeding by body condition, not by appetite alone. A snake that always eats can still become obese, while a seasonal refusal may be normal if weight is stable and the enclosure is correct.

🩺 Health — warning signs

Common problems include retained shed, respiratory infection, mites, burns, mouth inflammation, obesity, dehydration, regurgitation, and injuries from escapes or unstable decor. Warning signs include wheezing, bubbles at the nostrils, open-mouth breathing, repeated soaking, patchy shed, refusal to feed with weight loss, swelling, twisting posture, or repeated regurgitation.

Consult a reptile- or exotic-animal veterinarian for severe weakness, injury, breathing signs, swelling, repeated regurgitation, or prolonged refusal to eat.

If a problem appears, first verify the basics with instruments: warm surface, cool end, night temperature, humidity, hide fit, and prey size. Guessing at treatment before correcting the environment often wastes the most important recovery window.