Black-tailed monitor — Fact Sheet
Varanus tristis · Black-tailed monitor · Schwarzschwanzwaran
📋 At a glance
| Adult size | 80-100 cm; approximately 150-500 g |
| Lifespan | 12-15 years |
| Subspecies | Historical V. t. tristis / V. t. orientalis split; 2025 revision elevates northeastern V. orientalis to species |
| Origin | Arid, semi-arid and seasonally tropical Australia; keep locality records |
| Activity | Diurnal; semi-arboreal |
| Difficulty | Advanced |
| Legal | CITES Appendix II; EU Annex B; Australia prohibits commercial export of live native reptiles |
🏠 Enclosure
- One adult: minimum 150 × 75 × 120 cm; larger and taller preferred
- One animal per permanent enclosure; locked doors and sealed cable gaps
- Juvenile starting enclosure: approximately 90 × 60 × 90 cm with full gradients
- Substrate: 15-25 cm packed sandy soil/loam; 30-40 cm laying zone for a female
- Avoid calcium sand, walnut shell, cedar, sharp gravel and unstable decor
🪨 Enclosure furniture
- Broad basking shelves, vertical trunks, cork slabs, hollow tubes and tight hides
- Hot exposed perch, warm covered route, cool hollow and humid retreat
- Heavy decor supported from the base or frame, never loose substrate
- Clean feeding slab or smooth cup to reduce substrate ingestion
💡 Lighting
- High-output linear UVB plus bright full-enclosure visible light
- Ferguson Zone 3 starting target: UVI 2.5-4 at the back in the basking zone
- Shade below UVI 1 and fully dark hollows
- Measure through mesh with a Solarmeter 6.5; follow lamp replacement guidance
- Photoperiod: 10-13 h, changed gradually; complete darkness at night
🌡️ Temperature
Basking spot: 50-65 °C
Warm zone: 28-33 °C
Cool zone: 24-28 °C
Night: 18-24 °C
Basking value is a broad surface temperature, not whole-enclosure air
Infrared thermometer for surfaces; shaded digital probes for air
Dimming thermostat on every heat circuit; no heat rocks or exposed lamps
💧 Humidity & water
- Ambient humidity: approximately 30-60%, adjusted to documented locality
- Humid retreat: 55-70%, cool and lightly damp rather than wet
- Heavy clean water bowl always available and changed daily
- Moisten one deep substrate pocket or bark face; avoid condensation and stale air
🪳 Diet
Feed regularly:
- Gut-loaded roaches, crickets, locusts, silkworms and black soldier fly larvae
In moderation:
- Appropriately sized whole vertebrate prey or egg as rare variety for healthy adults
Avoid:
- Routine fatty rodents, mince, frequent egg, oversized prey and wild-caught insects
Supplements:
- Plain calcium on most juvenile insect meals and 2-3 adult meals weekly
- Reptile multivitamin at the product’s conservative interval; D3 less often with measured UVB
💤 Seasonal cooling
- Optional only for planned breeding of a healthy, established adult from a known locality
- Never cool juveniles, thin, ill, newly acquired or recently fed animals
- Change light and temperature gradually and verify refuge temperatures with probes
- Stop and consult a reptile veterinarian if weight or condition declines
🩺 Health — warning signs
- Pale, dark or blistered skin → thermal burn
- Swollen limbs, tremors or weak jaw → UVB/calcium disorder
- Retained shed, sunken eyes or hard urates → dehydration
- Straining, swelling or absent feces → obstruction, impaction or reproductive disease
- Rapid weight gain and thick soft tail base → overfeeding
- Wheezing, discharge or open-mouth breathing away from heat → respiratory disease or overheating
Consult a reptile-experienced veterinarian for burns, serious bites, falls, neurologic signs, suspected egg binding or prolonged refusal to feed.