Leachianus Gecko — Fact Sheet
Rhacodactylus leachianus · Leachianus Gecko
📋 At a glance
| Adult size | 30-43 cm |
| Lifespan | 20-30 years |
| Activity | Nocturnal |
| Difficulty | Intermediate |
| Legal | CITES: not listed; EU: Annex D; local rules still apply |
🏠 Enclosure
- Adult enclosure: 120 × 60 × 120 cm (length × width × height).
For one large adult, including Grande Terre animals. ReptiFiles distinguishes this from its 90 × 45 × 90 cm example for smaller locality animals; use the smaller option only when the animal’s lineage and expected adult size justify it. If size is uncertain, plan for the larger case. Fit thick, securely fixed branches and elevated retreats so the height is usable. These dimensions do not authorize pair housing; enlarge further for an unusually large animal or a layout crowded by furnishings.
- Substrate planning depth: 10 cm
- Housing: One animal per enclosure
🪨 Substrate and furnishings
The enclosure must be sturdy. This species is heavy, strong, and capable of shifting poorly secured decor.
Suitable substrate options include:
- Coconut fiber mixed with organic topsoil
- Tropical forest reptile substrate
- Sphagnum moss in selected humid areas
- Leaf litter for cover
- Paper towel for quarantine or medical monitoring
💡 Lighting
Leachianus geckos are nocturnal and crepuscular, but they benefit from a clear day-night cycle. Provide 10-14 hours of light depending on season, or a simple 12-hour cycle.
For UV planning, treat this species as Ferguson Zone 1. Aim for about UVI 0.5-1.0 in the upper exposed area, while leaving retreats and a gradient down to shaded areas near zero UVI. This usually points to a low-output UVB tube such as a ShadeDweller-style or 2-7% T5, chosen for the enclosure height; measure with a Solarmeter 6.5 when possible, because reflector, mesh, distance, and lamp age change the real exposure.
🌡️ Temperature
Basking spot: 25-28 °C
Daytime air: 21-25 °C
Cool zone: 20-22 °C
Night: 18-22 °C
Clear gradient required; the animal must be able to move between warm, cool, and hidden zones
Measure basking surfaces with an infrared thermometer and ambient zones with digital probes
Avoid heat rocks and unguarded heat sources
💧 Humidity and water
Air humidity: 60–80%. Typical air around the perches. Daytime readings may fall to about 50%, with brief nighttime peaks approaching 100%; neither extreme is a constant target. Measure away from direct spray at perch height and check sheltered resting sites separately. Let exposed surfaces partly dry each day.
Mist in the evening and lightly in the morning if needed. The enclosure should dry partially between mistings so surfaces do not remain stale and wet all day.
Most leachianus geckos drink droplets from bark, leaves, and glass, but a clean water dish should still be available. Good hydration supports shedding, digestion, and breeding condition.
🪳 Feeding
Leachianus geckos are omnivorous. In captivity, the staple diet should be a high-quality complete gecko diet formulated for New Caledonian species, mixed with water according to the instructions.
Offer fresh prepared diet two or three times per week for adults, and more often for juveniles. Remove old food before it spoils.
Live insects add enrichment and protein:
- Crickets
- Dubia or discoid roach nymphs
- Black soldier fly larvae
- Silkworms
- Small locusts where legal
Insects should be gut-loaded and dusted with calcium and vitamins as needed. Because leachianus geckos can become overweight, watch body condition and avoid overfeeding.
🩺 Health — warning signs
Common problems usually come from overheating, poor ventilation, constant wetness, obesity, falls, stress, breeding-related depletion, or bite wounds from pairing attempts.
Watch for:
- Stuck shed on toes, tail, or eyes
- Wrinkled skin or sunken eyes
- Weight loss or refusal to eat
- Obesity or fat deposits
- Soft jaw, tremors, or weak grip
- Bite wounds or tail injuries
- Burns from unguarded heat sources
- Egg binding in females
Check temperature, humidity cycle, diet, supplements, and enclosure safety first. Persistent symptoms, injuries, swelling, egg-laying trouble, or neurological signs require a reptile veterinarian.