Electric Blue Day Gecko — Fact Sheet
Lygodactylus williamsi · Electric Blue Day Gecko
📋 At a glance
| Adult size | 7-9 cm |
| Lifespan | 5-10 years |
| Activity | Diurnal |
| Difficulty | Advanced |
| Legal | CITES: Appendix I; EU: Annex A; local rules still apply |
🏠 Enclosure
- Enclosure planning dimensions: 45 x 45 x 60 cm
- Substrate planning depth: 8 cm
- Housing: One animal per enclosure
🪨 Substrate and furnishings
Use an enclosure that gives usable space, not just empty volume. Cork, bark, branches, bamboo, live or artificial plants and leaf cover all help the animal feel secure.
Avoid sharp decor, unstable rocks and gaps where the gecko can be trapped. Tiny juveniles need especially careful escape-proofing.
💡 Lighting
Provide a normal 10-12 hour day length. Bright visible light improves activity and plant growth; low to moderate UVB is recommended when the animal can also choose shade.
For UV planning, treat this species as Ferguson Zone 2. Aim for about UVI 1-2 in the upper exposed area, while leaving retreats and a gradient down to shaded areas near zero UVI. This usually points to a moderate 5-7% T5/Forest-style UVB tube at a measured safe distance; measure with a Solarmeter 6.5 when possible, because reflector, mesh, distance, and lamp age change the real exposure.
🌡️ Temperature
Basking spot: 30-32 °C
Daytime air: 24-28 °C
Cool zone: 22-24 °C
Night: 20-23 °C
Clear gradient required; the animal must be able to move between warm, cool, and hidden zones
Measure basking surfaces with an infrared thermometer and ambient zones with digital probes
Avoid heat rocks and unguarded heat sources
💧 Humidity and water
Aim for 60-80% with regular misting and drying. Most individuals drink droplets from leaves, glass or decor after misting, though a small clean water dish can be offered as backup.
The enclosure should become humid after misting and then dry partly again. Permanently wet, stale air encourages skin and respiratory problems.
🪳 Feeding
This species should be fed mainly with tiny insects such as fruit flies, small crickets and springtails plus occasional fine gecko diet. Prey must be smaller than the width of the head.
Feed juveniles more often than adults. Gut-load insects, dust with calcium regularly, and use a reptile multivitamin more sparingly according to the product instructions and UVB provision.
Fruit flies, bean beetles, tiny roach nymphs, and suitably small crickets allow useful rotation. Do not rely on springtails as the main diet or leave large crickets in the enclosure. Offer small portions frequently enough that juveniles grow steadily, remove spoiled gecko diet promptly, and dust insects lightly so powder does not make very small prey unpalatable.
🩺 Health — warning signs
Common problems include dehydration, retained shed, poor appetite, injuries from falls or handling, calcium imbalance, and stress from unsuitable groups. Warning signs include weight loss, weak grip, sunken eyes, repeated hiding without feeding, and visible wounds.
First check temperatures, humidity, ventilation, food size, supplement use and whether tankmates are causing stress. Persistent weakness or swelling needs a reptile veterinarian.