Anthony's Poison Frog — Fact Sheet

Epipedobates anthonyi · Anthony’s Poison Frog

📋 At a glance

🏠 Enclosure

• Indoor planted tropical terrarium
• Minimum for one pair: 45 x 45 x 45 cm; larger for groups
• Glass or acrylic with fine ventilation, tight doors, and sealed cable gaps
• Substrate: drainage layer, tropical soil mix, leaf litter, springtails/isopods
• Avoid dry tubs, stagnant wet substrate, sharp decor, pesticide-treated plants, and mixed species

🪨 Enclosure furniture

• Leaf litter, cork, roots, low plants, seed pods, and shaded retreats
• Several visual barriers and feeding areas for pairs or groups
• Small clean water/deposition sites; no deep open pool
• Escape-proof ventilation for tiny juveniles and fruit flies

💡 Lighting

• UVB is optional, not essential
• Plant LED plus gentle Ferguson Zone 1 UVB if measured
• Replace UVB by meter readings or manufacturer schedule
• No night lights; no direct outdoor sun through glass
• Photoperiod: 10-12 h

🌡️ Temperature

• Basking spot: 24-26 °C

• Warm zone: 21-25 °C

• Cool zone: 20-22 °C

• Night: 18-22 °C

• Clear gradient required; overheating is the main temperature risk

• Measure at frog level with digital probes

• Avoid heat rocks, hot lids, and unguarded lamps

💧 Humidity & water

• Humidity: 65-85%, with higher peaks after misting
• Use dechlorinated or RO water for misting and cups
• Damp leaf litter underneath; top layer not constantly wet
• Ventilation must prevent sour, stagnant air

🪳 Diet

Feed freely:

• Fruit flies, springtails, bean beetles, tiny crickets, small roach nymphs

In moderation:

• Larger flies, small isopods, occasional soft larvae

Avoid:

• Wild insects, oversized prey, loose adult crickets, feeder fish

Supplements:

• Calcium on most feedings; balanced vitamins on a measured schedule

🩺 Health — warning signs

• Weight loss → feeder shortage, stress, parasites, or disease
• Red feet or belly → dirty surfaces, infection, or toxin exposure
• Weak hunting → wrong temperature, stress, vitamin/mineral issue, or illness
• Bloating → serious disease or water-balance problem
• Constant hiding → stress, overheating, bullying, or poor cover

Consult an amphibian-experienced veterinarian for swelling, skin lesions, neurologic signs, injury, or prolonged refusal to eat.