Dyeing Poison Frog — Fact Sheet

Dendrobates tinctorius · Dyeing Poison Frog

📋 At a glance

🏠 Enclosure

• Aquarium, paludarium, or terrarium matched to aquatic, semi-aquatic, terrestrial, or arboreal lifestyle
• Adult size must allow normal movement, stable water/soil conditions, and multiple hides
• Substrate: safe aquatic sand/bare bottom for aquatic species, drainage and leaf litter for terrestrial frogs
• Avoid sharp decor, contaminated water, soap residue, and mixed-species setups

🪨 Enclosure furniture

• Hides, plants, leaf litter, cork, water area, and climbing/resting surfaces as appropriate
• Easy access between land and water for semi-aquatic species
• No rough decor that damages delicate skin

💡 Lighting

• Strong lighting is usually unnecessary; planted setups may use moderate LEDs
• Low-level UVB can be useful for some species but must be paired with shade
• Keep a stable day-night rhythm
• Photoperiod: 10-12 h; no constant night light

🌡️ Temperature

• Basking spot: 22-26 °C

• Warm zone: 26-27 °C

• Cool zone: 20-22 °C

• Night: 28 °C

• Clear gradient required; the animal must be able to move between warm, cool, and hidden zones

• Measure basking surfaces with an infrared thermometer and ambient zones with digital probes

• Avoid heat rocks and unguarded heat sources

💧 Humidity & water

• Stable clean water or high humidity according to species
• Dechlorinate all water and monitor aquarium parameters for aquatic amphibians
• Ventilation must prevent stagnant moldy air
• Avoid sudden temperature, pH, or moisture changes

🪳 Diet

Feed regularly:

• Earthworms, roaches, crickets, fruit flies, or aquatic foods sized to the species

In moderation:

• Waxworms, mealworms, and rich foods

Avoid:

• Wild-caught insects, oversized prey, hard sharp prey, feeder fish

Supplements:

• Gut-load feeders; use calcium/vitamins carefully for terrestrial frogs and none in aquarium water

🩺 Health — warning signs

• Red or inflamed skin → water quality, infection, or toxin issue
• Curled gills or surface gulping → water quality/flow/temperature problem
• Refusal to eat → temperature, stress, or disease
• Bloating → serious illness or water-balance issue
• Shedding problems → humidity, water quality, or skin disease

Consult a reptile- or exotic-animal veterinarian for severe weakness, injury, breathing signs, swelling, or prolonged refusal to eat.