Hermann's Tortoise

🔤 Taxonomy

Testudo hermanni is the currently accepted scientific name.

In husbandry and conservation literature, the two subspecies most often mentioned are T. h. hermanni and T. h. boettgeri.

English common names used in the hobby:

• Hermann’s tortoise

German common names used in the hobby:

• Griechische Landschildkröte

📌 Description

Hermann’s tortoise (Testudo hermanni) is one of the most recognizable land tortoises in Europe. It is a diurnal, active, and long-lived species that can live for decades when kept properly.

The body is compact, with a high domed carapace and distinct yellow-brown to dark markings. A characteristic feature is the horny spur at the tip of the tail. The species is often confused with the Greek tortoise (Testudo graeca), but Testudo hermanni usually lacks the femoral spurs on either side of the tail that are typical of Testudo graeca.

Adults usually reach 15-25 cm, depending on subspecies, sex, and origin. Females are often larger, while males have a longer and thicker tail. This is not an animal for short-term keeping; with good care, it may outlive several generations of keepers.

🌍 Distribution

Hermann’s tortoise is a European species found in parts of Southern Europe and the Balkans. It inhabits dry grasslands, scrub, forest edges, rocky slopes, and open sunny areas with low vegetation. There are two recognized subspecies with distinct ranges.

T. h. hermanni (western) — France (Département du Var: Massif des Maures and Massif de l’Esterel; Corsica), northeastern Spain (Albera Massif, Girona province), and Italy (Tyrrhenian coastal strip from Lazio to Tuscany; fragmented populations in Puglia, Calabria, Sicily, and Sardinia).

T. h. boettgeri (eastern) — Dalmatian coast and islands of Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro, Serbia, Albania, North Macedonia, Bulgaria, Greece (Central Macedonia, Epirus, Thessaly, Corfu), and isolated populations in Romania (Mehedinți County / Iron Gates, the northernmost limit) and European Turkey (Edirne and Kırklareli provinces).

The natural environment is characterized by:

• Plenty of sun with access to shaded retreats
• Seasonal temperature changes with a pronounced warm, dry summer
• Mild to cool winters (hibernation period)
• A rich variety of wild grasses and leafy plants

In the wild, tortoises actively move between sun and shade to regulate body temperature. This behavior must also be possible in captivity.

🌡 Climate across the native range

The two subspecies occupy climatically different zones. The western subspecies experiences a classic humid Mediterranean climate; the eastern subspecies spans a wider gradient from dry Dalmatian coast to more continental Balkan interior. Monthly normals from four representative verified locations:

Weather data by Open-Meteo.com · CC BY 4.0 · Monthly normals calculated by Herpeton Academy from daily archive values.

Location references use GBIF.org occurrence data where available; original occurrence records retain their source dataset licenses.

⚖️ Legal status

Hermann’s tortoise is a protected species and must not be taken from the wild. Legal keeping should involve only captive-bred animals with the required origin documents.

Within the EU, the species is subject to strict trade and registration rules, and international trade is also regulated through CITES. Documents of origin should always be requested when purchasing. Missing paperwork is not a minor detail; it may indicate an illegally collected animal and creates problems for both the keeper and species conservation.

The Bern Convention is not usually relevant unless a species is native to Europe or covered by local conservation rules; check current national guidance for the country where the animal is kept.

🤌 Husbandry

The best option for this tortoise is an outdoor enclosure during the warm part of the year. The species needs direct sun, space to move, a natural daily rhythm, and a varied environment. Keeping an adult only in a small indoor terrarium is rarely adequate.

The outdoor enclosure must be very secure. These tortoises can dig, push, climb, and work along boundaries persistently. The fence should prevent digging under or squeezing through gaps, and the enclosure should include both sunny and shaded zones.

For one adult, 2-3 m² outdoors is a practical minimum, and 4 m² or more is better. Groups require significantly more room, and males often need to be separated because repeated harassment of females or subordinate animals is common.

Indoor housing can be used for juveniles, quarantine, recovery, or cold periods, but it should be a wide open tortoise table rather than a tall, closed glass terrarium. Hatchlings and small juveniles can start around 90 x 60 cm; larger juveniles and subadults should have at least 120 x 60 cm to 150 x 75 cm. Adults should not be kept permanently indoors unless the pen provides at least 2-3 m² of real floor area.

💡 Lighting

UVB lighting is essential for indoor keeping. Tortoises need UVB to synthesize vitamin D3 and metabolize calcium correctly. Without quality UVB, the risk of metabolic bone disease, shell deformities, and poor growth is very high.

The best choice for indoor keeping is a quality mercury vapor bulb that combines UVB, UVA, and heat. It should only be used in a sufficiently large, open enclosure where the tortoise can freely move away from the warm zone. One end should also provide an adequate slightly humid area or humid hide, especially for young animals.

A good alternative is a linear T5 HO UVB lamp combined with a separate heat lamp. All UVB lamps must be replaced according to the manufacturer’s recommendations, because visible light may remain strong even after UVB output has declined.

For UV planning, Hermann’s tortoise should be treated as a Ferguson Zone 3 basking species. Indoors, aim for roughly UVI 3-4 at the tortoise’s shell height in the basking zone, with the rest of the enclosure fading into lower UV and shaded areas near zero UVI. This usually points to a stronger 10-12% T5/Desert-style UVB tube, or a suitable mercury vapor system in a large open setup. Measure with a Solarmeter 6.5 if possible, because lamp strength, reflector, mesh, and distance all change the actual exposure.

Outdoors, natural sunlight is the best source of UVB. Glass and most clear plastics block a significant amount of UVB, so a sunny area behind a window is not a substitute for direct sun.

The photoperiod is usually 10-12 hours of light, adjusted seasonally. Constant lighting at night is unnecessary and disrupts the natural cycle.

🌡 Heating and temperature

Like all reptiles, Hermann’s tortoise regulates body temperature through the environment. The enclosure must provide a clear temperature gradient so the animal can choose where to stay.

Approximate indoor temperatures:

• Basking spot: around 32-35°C
• Warm zone: 26-30°C
• Cool zone: 20-24°C
• Night temperature: usually 16-20°C

The heat lamp should create a local basking area, not warm the entire enclosure evenly. The tortoise must be able to move easily to a cooler zone.

Heat rocks are not recommended. They can cause burns and do not provide a natural way for the animal to thermoregulate. Temperatures should be measured with a reliable thermometer, and basking surface temperature is best checked with an infrared thermometer.

💧 Humidity and water

Although the species inhabits relatively dry habitats, it should not be kept in a completely dry environment. In young tortoises especially, overly dry conditions can contribute to uneven shell growth.

A shallow dish of clean water should always be available so the tortoise can drink and enter safely. The dish must be shallow enough to avoid drowning risk and heavy enough not to tip over easily.

Regular short soaks in shallow lukewarm water are useful for juveniles. This supports hydration and normal elimination. Outdoor enclosures should include both dry and slightly humid shelters, especially during hot periods.

🌿 Enclosure and decoration

The enclosure should allow natural behavior: walking, digging, grazing, hiding, and basking. An empty box with a lamp is not an appropriate environment for this species.

Suitable elements include:

• A dry grassy area
• Soil areas for digging
• Stones and roots without sharp edges
• Low shrubs and shelters
• Shaded areas
• Edible wild plants

The substrate may be a mix of clean soil, sand, and clay-like material that allows digging without holding excessive moisture. Scented wood shavings, cedar, pine, cat litter, and slippery flooring are not suitable.

Surfaces should not be constantly smooth. If a tortoise lives only on tile, paper, or plastic, the limbs are loaded incorrectly and natural behavior is restricted.

🥬 Feeding

Hermann’s tortoise is mainly herbivorous. The core diet should consist of low-protein, high-fiber leafy plants similar to the natural diet of land tortoises.

Suitable foods include:

• Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale agg.)
• Plantain (Plantago spp.)
• Clover (Trifolium spp.) in moderate amounts
• Mallow (Malva spp.)
• Mulberry leaves (Morus spp.)
• Hibiscus leaves (Hibiscus spp.)
• Arugula (Eruca vesicaria) and chicory (Cichorium intybus) as supplements
• Grapevine leaves (Vitis vinifera), if unsprayed
• Shepherd’s purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris)
• Chickweed (Stellaria media)
• Field bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis) in moderate amounts and only with certain identification
• Flowers of hibiscus (Hibiscus spp.), rose (Rosa spp.), calendula (Calendula officinalis), and nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus)
• A variety of safe wild grasses and weeds

Acceptable supplements:

• Endive (Cichorium endivia), chicory (Cichorium intybus), and Belgian endive (Cichorium intybus var. foliosum)
• Hay (timothy - Phleum pratense, meadow hay, or orchard grass - Dactylis glomerata), especially for indoor keeping

Avoid:

• Fruit, except very rarely and in minimal amounts
• Spinach, beet leaves, and dock in large amounts
• Any animal products
• Dog or cat food
• Dairy products, bread, and baked foods
• Legumes and high-protein foods

The diet should be varied. Feeding only iceberg lettuce, lettuce, or cucumber is not appropriate because these foods are poor in nutrients and fiber. Fruit should be offered rarely or not at all, because high sugar content can disrupt digestion.

Too rapid growth caused by an improper diet leads to deformities, kidney problems, and poor overall condition.

Calcium is important, especially for growing animals and females. A cuttlefish bone can be available in the enclosure, and food may be periodically dusted with a calcium supplement indoors. Supplements do not compensate for a lack of UVB.

Growth stage matters. Hatchlings and juveniles need the same high-quality, high-fiber diet as adults, but with closer hydration, calcium, UVB, and weight monitoring so growth stays steady rather than forced. Adults should be maintained lean and active on fibrous grazing foods; rich foods, excess protein, and frequent calorie-heavy extras cause shell deformity, obesity, kidney strain, and reproductive problems.

💤 Winter rest

Hermann’s tortoise is a species that undergoes winter rest in nature. In healthy adults, properly managed hibernation can be a natural part of the yearly cycle. It should not be attempted casually or without preparation.

Only healthy, well-fed, and properly prepared animals should be placed into winter rest. Young, sick, underweight, or newly acquired tortoises are better not hibernated until their condition is clear.

Before hibernation, weight, appetite, droppings, and general behavior should be monitored. Temperature is lowered gradually, and the digestive tract must be empty of food. Incorrect hibernation can be dangerous, so inexperienced keepers should consult a reptile veterinarian or experienced breeder.

🥚 Breeding

Breeding Hermann’s tortoises should be considered only with legally documented animals of known origin. The species is CITES Appendix II and EU Annex A, so commercial sale, transfer, transport, and captive-bred young may require Article 10 certificates, registration, marking, or other national paperwork. Check the local authority before pairing animals.

Adults intended for breeding should be fully mature, well grown, and in strong condition. Females must not be pushed into reproduction while undersized, recently acquired, recovering from illness, or chronically stressed. Males may court aggressively by ramming, biting, and chasing, so breeding groups need more space, visual barriers, and separation options.

Mating often increases after winter rest and during the warm active season, but animals should not be forced together continuously. Females need access to a warm, quiet nesting area with deep, firm, diggable substrate. If the nesting area is too shallow, too exposed, or too compact, egg retention can become a serious risk.

Egg production places heavy demands on calcium, hydration, UVB exposure, and body reserves. If a female is restless, digs repeatedly without laying, strains, stops eating, or becomes weak, contact a reptile veterinarian promptly.

Clutch size varies with subspecies, female size, and condition, but small clutches of a few eggs are normal. Incubation should be attempted only with correct equipment, stable temperatures, clear records, and a legal plan for every hatchling.

🩺 Common problems

The most common problems in land tortoises result from incorrect lighting, poor diet, too little space, or improper preparation for winter rest.

Warning signs include:

• Soft or deformed shell
• Refusal to eat outside normal seasonal slowdown
• Swollen eyes
• Nasal discharge
• Wheezing or open-mouth breathing
• Lethargy
• Unnaturally fast or uneven growth

If these signs appear, first check temperature, UVB lighting, diet, and hydration. If there are respiratory signs, severe weakness, injury, or prolonged refusal to eat, a veterinarian experienced with reptiles should be consulted.

📌 Conclusion

Hermann’s tortoise is a hardy and impressive tortoise, but only when kept according to the real needs of the species. It requires space, sun or quality UVB lighting, a proper temperature gradient, a high-fiber plant diet, and a secure enclosure.

The best results come from outdoor keeping during the warm season and a carefully planned yearly cycle. With legal origin, a good environment, and consistent care, this species can be a long-lived and active inhabitant, not just an animal placed in a corner with a lamp.

📚 Sources and further reading

• CITES Appendices and Species+ trade database, checked April 2026
• EU wildlife trade regulations and annex references, checked April 2026
• GBIF species backbone and occurrence data for taxonomy and distribution context
• IUCN Red List and specialist husbandry references where applicable