Nhandu coloratovillosus
🔤 Taxonomy
Nhandu coloratovillosus is the currently accepted scientific name. Older literature and some hobby labels use Brazilopelma coloratovillosum, the name under which the species was first described.
World Spider Catalog treats the species as accepted and lists Brazil as the distribution. Do not merge it casually with other black-and-white tarantulas; Acanthoscurria geniculata and Nhandu chromatus are different care and record subjects.
Older names and combinations associated with the species include:
- Brazilopelma coloratovillosum
English common names used in the hobby:
- Brazilian black and white tarantula
- Brazilian black-and-white
- bombardier tarantula
📌 Description
Nhandu coloratovillosus is a large, heavy-bodied New World terrestrial tarantula with bold black-and-white leg patterning and long reddish to orange hairs on the abdomen.
Adult females can reach about 16-18 cm legspan and are much heavier than mature males. It is a strong feeder and often visible, but it is not a calm handling species.
The main risks are defensive hair flicking, sudden short-distance bursts, and fall injury. Use a low enclosure, long tools, and slow maintenance rather than trying to test temperament.
Juveniles can grow quickly and may change from a hidden sling into a substantial, food-responsive spider within a relatively short period. Prepare the adult enclosure early. Visibility is often good once established, but frequent exposure does not mean the animal wants contact; it may simply be waiting at the retreat entrance for prey.
🌍 Distribution
Current WSC distribution places Nhandu coloratovillosus in Brazil. Husbandry should be based on a seasonal terrestrial spider that needs dry surface choices, a water dish, and enough substrate to dig or reshape a retreat.
A uniformly wet rainforest-style enclosure is a common mistake. The spider should have water and some moisture access, but the walking surface and hide entrance should be able to dry.

🌡 Climate across the native range
Monthly climate normals from reviewed GBIF occurrence locations:
Tocantins — Brazil
| Month | Min °C | Mean °C | Max °C | RH % |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| January | 20.3 | 24.8 | 29.3 | 87 |
| February | 20 | 24.8 | 29.6 | 88 |
| March | 20.5 | 25 | 29.5 | 88 |
| April | 20.3 | 25.4 | 30.5 | 84 |
| May | 19.6 | 25.6 | 31.6 | 77 |
| June | 18.1 | 25.3 | 32.5 | 67 |
| July | 17.5 | 25.3 | 33.1 | 60 |
| August | 18.2 | 26.3 | 34.3 | 57 |
| September | 19.7 | 26.6 | 33.5 | 66 |
| October | 20.2 | 26 | 31.8 | 76 |
| November | 20.3 | 25.5 | 30.6 | 82 |
| December | 20.3 | 25.1 | 29.8 | 85 |
Pará — Brazil
| Month | Min °C | Mean °C | Max °C | RH % |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| January | 19 | 23.2 | 27.5 | 91 |
| February | 18.7 | 22.9 | 27.2 | 92 |
| March | 19.2 | 23.3 | 27.5 | 91 |
| April | 18.5 | 23.7 | 28.9 | 89 |
| May | 18.5 | 24 | 29.6 | 85 |
| June | 17.5 | 23.8 | 30.1 | 79 |
| July | 17 | 23.8 | 30.5 | 74 |
| August | 17.1 | 24.3 | 31.5 | 73 |
| September | 17.9 | 24.4 | 30.9 | 79 |
| October | 18.2 | 24.2 | 30.2 | 83 |
| November | 18.6 | 23.9 | 29.3 | 86 |
| December | 18.7 | 23.4 | 28.2 | 90 |
Mato Grosso — Brazil
| Month | Min °C | Mean °C | Max °C | RH % |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| January | 19.4 | 24.9 | 30.4 | 84 |
| February | 19.4 | 25.1 | 30.9 | 85 |
| March | 19.2 | 25.1 | 30.9 | 83 |
| April | 18.3 | 24.8 | 31.4 | 77 |
| May | 15.9 | 23.3 | 30.7 | 71 |
| June | 13.1 | 21.6 | 30 | 65 |
| July | 12.7 | 21.3 | 30 | 58 |
| August | 14.5 | 23.4 | 32.2 | 55 |
| September | 17.6 | 25.3 | 33.1 | 65 |
| October | 18.8 | 25.9 | 32.9 | 73 |
| November | 19.2 | 25.4 | 31.6 | 81 |
| December | 19.2 | 25.1 | 30.9 | 85 |
Weather data by WorldClim v2.1 · Monthly normals queried by Herpeton Academy from raster values; relative humidity is derived from vapor pressure and mean temperature.
Location references use GBIF.org occurrence data where available; original occurrence records retain their source dataset licenses.
⚖️ Legal status
As checked against the current CITES Checklist, CITES Appendices, and EU wildlife-trade references on 2026-06-03, no current CITES listing or specific EU Annex listing was found for Nhandu coloratovillosus. The species is not relevant to the Bern Convention because it is not native to Europe.
Local and national rules on collection, export, import, sale, transport, exhibition, breeding, and proof of legal origin may still apply. Keep invoices, breeder details, import or transfer paperwork where relevant, and avoid animals with unclear wild-collection stories.
🤌 Husbandry
Keep this species singly in a secure terrestrial enclosure. It is large enough to injure itself in a fall and strong enough to push against weak lids or loose decor.
Raise juveniles in staged enclosures so prey can be found easily. Adults need more floor area than height, deep firm substrate, a hide, and a water dish that cannot tip easily.
Build the setup around:
- large low enclosure
- 12-18 cm of firm substrate
- wide cork bark hide
- shallow stable water dish
- open feeding area with no sharp decor
Set the enclosure inside a clear working space before major maintenance and keep a catch cup ready. This species may bolt across the floor area or kick hairs before retreating. Guide it with a soft brush only when movement is necessary, and never pin or grasp it.
Quarantine each new arrival away from other invertebrates. Use separate forceps and water equipment, observe the water dish for mites, and log feeding and molts. Spot-clean prey remains promptly, but avoid repeatedly dismantling the hide; stable cover is part of the spider’s security.
💡 Lighting
No UVB or specialist basking lamp is required. A normal room day-night rhythm is enough, and any display light should stay weak enough that it does not overheat or dry the retreat.
🌡 Heating and temperature
Keep daytime temperatures around 22-27°C, with a modest night drop around 20-23°C. Stable room warmth is safer than a lamp aimed at a small enclosure.
Avoid temperature spikes. Tarantulas often tolerate a cool night better than a hot, dry enclosure, and small containers can overheat quickly on racks, windowsills, or shelves near radiators.
💧 Humidity and water
Use moderate humidity rather than a wet tank. Keep a water dish available, overflow a corner when needed, and let much of the surface remain dry between maintenance days.
During molts, a slightly higher moisture option helps, but the whole enclosure should not become stagnant. Ventilation and a dry retreat edge are as important as humidity.
Moisten by pouring a little water down one side, not by spraying the spider. The deeper layer should hold some moisture while the surface becomes mostly dry. Persistent wall condensation, sour-smelling substrate, or widespread mold means airflow or watering needs correction. A constantly dry, shriveled setup is equally unsuitable, especially for small juveniles.
🌿 Enclosure and decoration
Use soil mix or coco-based substrate that compacts enough for a heavy spider. A cork bark hide partly buried into the substrate gives security without forcing a tall climbing route.
Avoid tall branches, stacked rock, and heavy decoration that can shift. A fall of even a short distance can rupture the abdomen of a large terrestrial tarantula.
Compacted unfertilized soil mixed with coco fiber provides better footing and burrow support than loose fiber alone. Give a large female about 12-18 cm of substrate when possible and angle cork bark into it as a starter retreat. Anchor any heavy bowl on firm ground so excavation cannot make it tip or collapse.
Avoid mesh lids because claws may snag during exploratory climbing. Leaf litter and light artificial foliage can provide cover, but keep a clear path between the hide and water. Recheck decor after digging; this strong spider may move substrate enough to expose a hard fall surface.
Keep the water dish on the accessible side of the enclosure so it can be serviced without reaching across the retreat entrance. This small layout choice substantially reduces close defensive encounters.
🪳 Feeding
Adults usually do well on appropriately sized roaches, crickets, or locusts where legal every 7-14 days. Juveniles can be fed smaller prey more often while growth is active.
Do not overfeed just because the species has a strong response. A very swollen abdomen increases fall-injury risk and can make molts harder.
Prey should be roughly no larger than the abdomen. Slings can take pinhead roaches, small crickets, or pre-killed pieces once or twice weekly; adults need fewer, larger meals. Remove prey that is ignored overnight. When the spider darkens, refuses food, or seals its hide, stop feeding and wait until the new fangs have hardened after the molt.
🩺 Common problems
Common problems include over-wet substrate, fall injuries, hair irritation, obesity from overfeeding, and stress from repeated enclosure rearrangement.
A defensive posture or hair flicking is a management signal. Close the enclosure, slow down, and plan the next maintenance with tools and a catch cup instead of escalating contact.
Do not confuse the normal upside-down molting position with collapse. Leave the spider untouched and remove all live prey. Seek experienced veterinary advice for a leaking injury, a severe fall, marked dehydration that does not improve with water access, or an obviously stalled molt; improvised handling often causes more damage.
📌 Conclusion
Nhandu coloratovillosus is best for keepers who want a large dramatic display spider and can provide low, secure housing. Its care is not technically complex, but its size and defensive behavior demand respect.
📚 Sources and further reading
- CITES Checklist and Appendices - legal-status references checked 2026-06-03
- EU wildlife trade regulations - legal-status references checked 2026-06-03
- Bern Convention appendices
- GBIF species backbone entry for Nhandu coloratovillosus
- World Spider Catalog species entry
- Tom’s Big Spiders: Nhandu coloratovillosus husbandry listing