Milk Snake

🔤 Taxonomy

Lampropeltis triangulum is the currently accepted scientific name for the milk snake. Older hobby material may treat some regional forms differently because milk snakes and kingsnakes have a complex taxonomic history.

English common names used in the hobby:

• Milk snake

German common names used in the hobby:

• Milchschlange

📌 Description

Lampropeltis triangulum is a slender New World colubrid known for bold banding or blotching, active behavior, and generally manageable adult size. Depending on the form, adults commonly range from under 1 meter to around 1.5 meters.

Milk snakes are popular because they are hardy and attractive, but they are still excellent escape artists and need proper heating, hiding places, and prey sizing.

🌍 Distribution

Lampropeltis triangulum is native to a broad part of North and Central America, with many regional forms and former subspecies names in older literature. In the wild it is associated with woodland edges, rocky slopes, fields, farms, forest openings and other cover-rich habitats with seasonal temperature change.

For captive care, the useful lesson from this distribution is:

• secure hides in both warm and cool parts of the enclosure
• a clear thermal gradient instead of one uniform temperature
• substrate and cover that match the species’ natural shelter use
• humidity managed by microclimates, not by keeping the whole enclosure wet
• space and enrichment that support normal movement and hunting behaviour

⚖️ Legal status

As checked against current official sources in April 2026, no current CITES listing or specific EU wildlife trade Annex listing was found for Lampropeltis triangulum. The species is not relevant to the Bern Convention because it is not native to Europe.

National or local rules on keeping, sale, transport, and breeding may still apply in some places. Captive-bred animals from reliable sources remain preferable.

🤌 Husbandry

Milk snakes are usually best kept alone. A practical adult enclosure is often around 90-120 x 45 x 45 cm depending on the form and adult size.

Useful basics include:

• Secure locks
• A warm hide and a cool hide
• Clutter and cover
• A water bowl
• Dry-to-moderate substrate

💡 Lighting

No strong specialist lighting is required, but a normal day-night cycle is important. Low-level UVB can be used if it is set up correctly, though it is not strictly required.

Night lighting is unnecessary.

For UV planning, treat this species as Ferguson Zone 2. Aim for about UVI 1-2 in the upper exposed area, while leaving retreats and a gradient down to shaded areas near zero UVI. This usually points to a moderate 5-7% T5/Forest-style UVB tube at a measured safe distance; measure with a Solarmeter 6.5 when possible, because reflector, mesh, distance, and lamp age change the real exposure.

🌡 Heating and temperature

Suitable approximate temperatures are:

• Warm hide or basking surface: around 29-31°C
• Warm side ambient: about 25-27°C
• Cool side: around 22-24°C
• Night: usually around 20-22°C

The goal is a stable gradient rather than a hot enclosure overall.

💧 Humidity and water

Milk snakes usually do well at moderate humidity with access to fresh water.

Useful principles:

• Normal humidity around 40-60%
• Slightly higher humidity during shed if needed
• A humid hide when shedding is poor
• Dry, clean conditions with decent ventilation

🌿 Enclosure and decoration

The enclosure should encourage security and exploration.

Useful elements include:

• Cork bark or hides
• Branches or low climbing options
• Leaf litter or clutter
• Substrate suitable for burrowing lightly
• A stable water dish

🪳 Feeding

Milk snakes feed well on appropriately sized rodents in captivity.

Useful feeding principles:

• Use frozen-thawed prey as the standard approach
• Match prey size to the widest part of the snake
• Feed juveniles more often than adults
• Avoid excessive overfeeding

Many adults do well on a 7-14 day schedule depending on size and body condition.

🩺 Common problems

Common problems include escape risk, poor sheds, regurgitation from incorrect temperatures or oversized prey, dehydration, and chronic stress in sparse enclosures.

Warning signs include:

• Repeated bad sheds
• Wheezing
• Weight loss
• Regurgitation
• Persistent refusal to eat
• Nose rubbing

If problems appear, first check temperatures, prey size, humidity, water access, and enclosure security. Respiratory signs or repeated regurgitation need a reptile veterinarian.

📌 Conclusion

Lampropeltis triangulum is a strong choice for keepers who want an active, attractive colubrid with straightforward husbandry. The species does best in a secure enclosure with a proper thermal gradient, moderate humidity, and sensible feeding.

📚 Sources and further reading

• CITES Appendices and Species+ trade database, checked April 2026
• EU wildlife trade regulations and annex references, checked April 2026
• GBIF species backbone and occurrence data for taxonomy and distribution context
• IUCN Red List and specialist husbandry references where applicable