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Red Runner Roaches

🔤 Taxonomy

Shelfordella lateralis is the accepted scientific name used for this feeder guide.

Common names used in the feeder trade:

  • Red runner roach
  • Turkestan roach
  • Lateralis roach

📌 Description

Red runner roaches are fast, soft-bodied feeder roaches that trigger a strong feeding response in many insectivores. They breed quickly and suit tarantulas, lizards, amphibians, and mantids, but they are escape-prone and can become pests in warm buildings.

Feed a clean base diet plus fresh plant foods where appropriate. Gut-load for 24-48 hours before feeding when the feeder will be offered to predators. No feeder species is a complete diet by itself.

🌍 Distribution

The species is native to arid and semi-arid parts of western and central Asia and is now spread in warm buildings and feeder cultures. Treat it as a high-escape-risk feeder.

For keeper practice, biosecurity matters more than a precise range map: commercial feeder and cleanup-culture invertebrates are moved far outside their natural ranges, and escaped animals should never be released or treated as harmless.

⚖️ Regulations and safety

Shelfordella lateralis is not listed in the CITES Appendices in the official CITES checklist reviewed for this guide. No specific EU wildlife trade Annex listing was found for the species.

The EU Invasive Alien Species Regulation restricts species on the Union list; this guide does not treat Shelfordella lateralis as a Union-list species. Local and national rules can still restrict live invertebrate imports, transport, breeding, sale, use in schools or workplaces, and disposal.

The Bern Convention is not normally relevant because this is not a European native protected-species care issue. Keep cultures secure, never release live feeders, and freeze surplus or unwanted invertebrates before disposal where local rules allow.

🤌 Husbandry

A practical culture needs correct temperature, airflow, clean food, controlled moisture, and a container that prevents escapes. Keep feeder cultures away from pesticides, aerosols, cleaning fumes, and wild invertebrates. Do not mix fresh shop tubs into a long-term colony without quarantine.

Good setup:

  • Smooth-sided plastic tub or ventilated culture box
  • Fine mesh or fabric ventilation sized for the feeder
  • Dry food or base medium separated from wet food where possible
  • Sorting container for feeding and cleaning
  • Clear date labels for cultures and purchased batches

💡 Lighting

Feeder invertebrates do not need UVB. A normal room day-night rhythm is enough. Keep cultures out of direct sun because small containers overheat quickly.

🌡 Heating and temperature

Recommended ranges:

  • Holding: 24-30°C
  • Productive breeding: 28-32°C
  • Egg incubation: 28-32°C
  • Avoid cool damp conditions

💧 Humidity and water

Moisture should be controlled rather than stagnant. Remove moldy food quickly, keep dry foods dry, and give moisture from safe foods or a small controlled damp area.

🌿 Enclosure and decoration

Use enough surface area and ventilation to prevent crowding, condensation, and odor. Keep cultures simple so dead animals, spoiled food, and mites can be spotted quickly. Clean small holding tubs between batches and refresh long-term cultures before they collapse.

🪳 Feeding

Useful foods:

  • Roach chow, insect gut-load, or dry grain-based feed
  • Carrot, squash, greens, apple, or orange in small portions
  • Remove wet food before it molds

Feed a clean base diet plus fresh plant foods where appropriate. Gut-load for 24-48 hours before feeding when the feeder will be offered to predators. No feeder species is a complete diet by itself.

🥚 Breeding

Females deposit oothecae that hatch best in warm, dry-to-moderately humid conditions. Use smooth bins with tight lids, fine ventilation, and a sorting tub because nymphs are small and very fast.

Do not let breeding goals override feeder quality. Cultures that smell sour, contain many dead animals, or show heavy mites should not be used for sensitive animals.

🩺 Common problems

Common problems:

  • Mold from excess moisture or stale food
  • Mites from damp waste and old cultures
  • Escape through poor lids or oversized ventilation mesh
  • Nutritional imbalance when one feeder is used alone
  • Predator injury or impaction risk when feeders are oversized
  • Culture crashes from heat, crowding, pesticides, or contamination

📌 Conclusion

Use this feeder as part of a varied rotation, keep the culture clean, and match feeder size to the animal eating it. Culture hygiene is part of nutrition and safety.

📚 Sources and further reading