Dyeing Poison Frog

🔤 Taxonomy

Dendrobates tinctorius is the currently accepted scientific name. In older literature and in parts of the hobby, hobbyists may also encounter locality-based names or older references that treated closely related forms separately.

English common names used in the hobby:

• Dyeing poison frog
• Dyeing dart frog

German common names used in the hobby:

• Färberfrosch
• Färberpfeilgiftfrosch

📌 Description

Dendrobates tinctorius is a medium-sized poison frog from the Guiana Shield, known for bold black patterning combined with yellow, white, blue, or orange depending on locality. It is one of the sturdier and more visible dart frogs in captivity and often spends time out in the open when the enclosure is well planted and secure.

Adults usually reach around 4.5-6 cm, with females generally broader and slightly larger than males. Males are often slimmer and more active around calling sites, but sexing is still easier in mature groups than in juveniles.

Captive-bred animals are not dangerous to keep under normal circumstances. Wild poison frogs derive their skin alkaloids from natural prey, while captive-bred frogs on standard feeder insects do not maintain the same chemical defenses. Even so, these are delicate amphibians and should be handled only when absolutely necessary.

With stable care, Dendrobates tinctorius can live well over 10 years. It is often considered one of the more manageable poison frog species for prepared keepers, but success still depends on clean, humid, carefully structured housing and reliable access to small live foods.

🌍 Distribution

Dendrobates tinctorius is native to the eastern Guiana Shield, including French Guiana, Suriname, Guyana and adjacent northern Brazil. In the wild it is associated with humid tropical forest with leaf litter, roots, fallen wood and small water-holding sites used for tadpoles.

For captive care, the useful lesson from this distribution is:

• stable humidity with fresh airflow rather than stagnant wetness
• leaf litter, roots, plants, or other natural cover at the level the species actually uses
• clean water sources or deposition sites appropriate to the species
• moderate temperatures with night drops where they occur naturally
• a planted enclosure that creates several small microclimates

🌡 Climate across the native range

Monthly climate normals from representative lowland stations across the Guiana Shield range:

Weather data by Open-Meteo.com · CC BY 4.0 · Monthly normals calculated by Herpeton Academy from daily archive values.

Location references use GBIF.org occurrence data where available; original occurrence records retain their source dataset licenses.

⚖️ Legal status

As checked against current official sources in April 2026, Dendrobates tinctorius is listed in CITES Appendix II. Under EU wildlife-trade rules, Appendix II amphibians of this type are generally treated under Annex B unless a stricter measure applies.

The species is not relevant to the Bern Convention because it is not native to Europe. Local and national rules on import, sale, transport, breeding, welfare, and documentary proof of legal captive origin may still apply. Buyers should always choose clearly documented captive-bred stock from a reputable breeder.

🤌 Husbandry

Dendrobates tinctorius does best in a secure, planted tropical terrarium with strong ventilation and consistently high humidity. It is not a species for sparse or overly dry enclosures.

Adults are commonly kept singly, in sexed pairs, or in carefully managed groups with enough floor space and visual barriers. Adult females can be territorial, especially in cramped setups, so mixed-sex groups require observation and enough structure to break line of sight. For many keepers, a well-sized pair is the simplest long-term setup.

Useful husbandry priorities include:

• Stable tropical temperatures without overheating
• High humidity with fresh airflow
• A drainage layer or equivalent water-management system
• Deep leaf litter and multiple retreats
• Frequent feeding with properly supplemented small prey

These frogs are display animals rather than handling pets. Routine disturbance, repeated catching, and frequent enclosure rearrangement cause stress quickly.

🧪 Filtration and water

This species does not need an aquarium-style water section, but water management inside the terrarium is extremely important. Constantly wet, stagnant substrate causes bacterial growth, mold, and foot problems, while an enclosure that dries too hard causes dehydration and poor sheds.

A drainage layer, false bottom, or similarly effective water-management design is strongly recommended in most planted setups. Excess spray water must be able to leave the surface layer instead of turning the substrate into swampy mud.

Key points:

• Use dechlorinated or reverse-osmosis water for misting
• Prevent water from pooling in the main walking areas
• Replace or clean any shallow water dishes regularly
• Keep tadpole cups or film canisters clean if breeding is attempted

Large open water features are unnecessary and may even be counterproductive. These frogs use moisture, wet surfaces, and tiny deposition sites much more than they use standing pools.

💡 Lighting

Dendrobates tinctorius is diurnal and benefits from a clear day-night cycle. Good enclosure lighting helps the frogs maintain normal activity patterns and supports live plant growth.

A 10-12 hour photoperiod works well for most setups. Bright terrarium lighting is acceptable if the enclosure still includes shaded retreats under leaves, cork, and wood.

Low-level UVB can be beneficial when used correctly. If UVB is provided, it should be gentle and spread across the enclosure rather than concentrated into a harsh basking point. Poison frogs must always be able to move fully into shade.

Night lighting is unnecessary. Darkness at night is better than colored bulbs or constant ambient illumination.

For UV planning, treat this species as Ferguson Zone 1. Aim for about UVI 0.5-1.0 in the upper exposed area, while leaving retreats and a gradient down to shaded areas near zero UVI. This usually points to a low-output UVB tube such as a ShadeDweller-style or 2-7% T5, chosen for the enclosure height; measure with a Solarmeter 6.5 when possible, because reflector, mesh, distance, and lamp age change the real exposure.

🌡 Heating and temperature

Dendrobates tinctorius prefers warm but moderate tropical temperatures. It does poorly when kept too hot.

Suitable approximate temperatures:

• Daytime ambient: 22-26°C
• Warm daytime peak: around 26-27°C
• Night: 20-22°C

Temperatures above about 28°C increase stress rapidly, especially in humid enclosures with limited cooling. Prolonged heat is one of the fastest ways to lose poison frogs in captivity.

In most homes, these frogs do best with gentle room heating rather than direct intense heat from above. If a terrarium lamp adds warmth, temperatures should be checked at frog level near the substrate, not only near the top of the enclosure.

💧 Humidity and water

Humidity should generally remain high, usually around 80-100% with some daily fluctuation. The goal is a humid enclosure with moist microclimates, not permanently soaked upper surfaces.

Good practice includes:

• Regular misting, often once or twice daily depending on ventilation
• Moist substrate layers below the surface
• Leaf litter that stays damp but not sour
• Enough airflow to prevent stale air and persistent condensation everywhere

A well-run poison frog terrarium should feel humid and alive, but not swampy. If the enclosure smells sour or the leaf litter breaks down into sludge too quickly, the setup is usually staying too wet.

🌿 Enclosure and decoration

A horizontal or cube-style terrarium with strong floor area is usually more useful than a very tall enclosure. For a pair or similarly sized small group, many keepers begin around 45 x 45 x 45 cm or larger, with more space being helpful for group dynamics.

The enclosure should include:

• A drainage layer or false bottom
• A tropical substrate suitable for planted, humid setups
• A generous layer of leaf litter
• Cork bark, roots, branches, and seed pods for cover
• Live plants such as Philodendron, Epipremnum, bromeliads, and mosses

Visual clutter matters. These frogs are much bolder when they can move through cover instead of crossing bare glass and open substrate. Clean-up crews such as springtails and isopods are useful in bioactive systems, but they do not replace basic enclosure hygiene.

🪱 Feeding

Dendrobates tinctorius is insectivorous and needs small, moving live prey. Variety is important, especially for growing frogs and breeding adults.

Suitable food items include:

• Drosophila melanogaster and Drosophila hydei fruit flies
• Springtails, especially for juveniles
• Bean beetles
• Small isopods in moderation
• Very small crickets or roach nymphs for larger adults where appropriate

Juveniles usually need daily feeding. Adults are commonly fed five to six times per week in small portions, or slightly less often if prey size is larger. Food should be consumed quickly rather than allowed to die off in the enclosure.

Supplementation matters greatly. Most feedings should include calcium, while a broader vitamin and mineral supplement is used more sparingly according to product instructions. Overuse of supplements can be as problematic as underuse, so a consistent schedule is better than heavy random dusting.

🩺 Common problems

The most common Dendrobates tinctorius problems in captivity are linked to overheating, chronic stress, poor sanitation, weak supplementation, and bad water management. Warning signs include:

• Weight loss or a narrow body shape
• Lethargy or hiding much more than normal
• Poor hunting response
• Repeated abnormal sheds
• Redness, sores, or abrasions on the feet and belly
• Bloating
• Sudden collapse during hot weather

Short-term dehydration can happen even in enclosures that seem humid if ventilation, drainage, and misting are poorly balanced. Foot lesions and belly irritation are often associated with dirty surfaces or substrate that stays fouled and compacted.

New frogs should be quarantined before entering an established collection. Any poison frog showing persistent weight loss, swelling, skin lesions, neurologic signs, or refusal to feed should be examined by a veterinarian experienced with amphibians.

📌 Conclusion

Dendrobates tinctorius is one of the most rewarding poison frogs in captivity when its basic needs are met: moderate temperatures, high humidity, excellent water management, visual cover, and frequent access to properly supplemented live prey.

It is not a difficult species for a prepared keeper, but it is unforgiving of overheating and poor enclosure hygiene. In a mature planted terrarium with stable routines, these frogs are active, bold, long-lived, and fascinating to observe.

📚 Sources and further reading

• CITES Appendices and Species+ trade database, checked April 2026
• EU wildlife trade regulations and annex references, checked April 2026
• GBIF species backbone and occurrence data for taxonomy and distribution context
• IUCN Red List and specialist husbandry references where applicable